Shrubs — Planting is still the main activity but delay in case of freezing weather.

Lawns — Control wild garlic, chickweed, Poa annua, dandelion, and other weeds. Read label on each can of weed killer used.

Roses — Add plants to rose garden. Mulch all plantings.

Annuals and Perennials — Plant hardy annual seed without delay Have you tried violas?

Bulbs — Continue spring bulb planting.

Miscellaneous — Shrubs trees, and indoor plants make excellent gifts.

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The word herb has many definitions, but practically speaking, herbs are plants that are grown for their medicinal, aromatic and/or seasoning uses. Most herbs are herbaceous annuals or perennials. Some, such as lavender and rosemary, are small shrubs.

Landscape Use

Herbs can be used in a number of ways in the ornamental garden. Herbs are often planted in theme gardens such as Biblical gardens, scent gardens, tea gardens, kitchen gardens and apothecary gardens. Many herbs can also be incorporated into the regular flower or mixed border. With delightful scents, attractive shapes and textures, and countless shades of green and gray, herbs can be used to make a garden that appeals to all the senses.

Growing Herbs

Many common herbs are from the Mediterranean region. They are adapted to an area with lots of sun, well-drained, stony soil and dry summers. In South Carolina, they can have difficulty in heavy soils and the ever-present humidity. It is helpful to create raised beds for these plants to improve soil drainage, select cultivars that are tolerant of our climate and use a mulch of stone or gravel to help prevent rots.

Almost all herbs grow best in an area that is sunny for at least six hours each day. The fragrance oils, which account for herb flavors, are produced in the greatest quantity when plants receive plenty of sun. A few herbs-including angelica, parsley and mint-prefer partial shade or shade.

Soil for growing herbs should be well-drained. The soil should have a pH of 6 to 7 and contain a moderate amount of organic matter. Add 2 to 3 inches of fine pine bark, cracked pea gravel, poultry grit or coarse compost worked in to 8 to 12 inches deep to improve the drainage in clay soils. Add 2 to 3 inches of fine pine bark, compost or leaf mold to sandy soils to improve their moisture retention. Build raised beds to further improve drainage. Very few herbs will grow in wet soils, although a few such as mints and lemon-grass thrive in moist soil.

It is best to base fertilizer and lime applications on the results of a soil test. Most herbs do not need a highly fertile soil. Very fertile soils tend to produce lush leaves that lack flavor.

Annual herbs are primarily grown from seeds. Several such as basil, coriander (cilantro) and dill may be directly sown. Seeds of some cold-hardy herbs such as parsley may be sown in the fall. Tender annuals such as basil are sown after all danger of frost is past in the spring.

Most perennial herbs are transplanted from small pots. Plant perennial herbs in the fall if possible so that the plants have time to get well established before summer. Perennials can also be planted in early spring. Pinch out the tips of new plants to force them to branch and become full. Plant aggressively spreading herbs such as the mints in a separate area or confine their roots to a depth of 10 to 12 inches to prevent them from taking over the garden.

Although many herbs are drought-tolerant, moisture is needed to maintain active growth. Water herbs thoroughly and then allow the soil to dry out somewhat before watering again. Plants should be watered early enough in the day that leaves can dry before nightfall. Some herbs, particularly most annual herbs, need additional soil moisture for best growth.

Mulch with organic materials such as compost or composted bark to maintain even soil temperatures, discourage weeds, and retain soil moisture. Herbs with gray leaves, or that that are sensitive to excessive moisture and humidity, can benefit from a 1- to 2- inch mulch of pea gravel or other stones.

Some herbs may be grown in containers and brought inside in winter to provide fresh herbs all year. Bush basil, sage, winter savory, parsley, chives and varieties of oregano and thyme are some of the best herbs for growing in containers. Herbs grown inside will need plenty of sunlight from a south or west window.

Prune herbs regularly to promote vigorous, well shaped, sturdy growth. If you harvest herbs regularly, this should keep your plants pruned.

Problems

The fragrance oils in many herbs repel most insects. However, aphids and spider mites can be a problem. Aphids are common in crowded conditions with rapidly growing, succulent plants. Spider mites thrive in dry conditions and can be discouraged by spraying the plants with a strong stream of plain water regularly during periods of drought. The best defenses against pests on herbs are proper growing conditions, good sanitation, removal of weak or infested growth, and regular pruning.

Harvest & Storage

Herbs should be harvested when the fragrance oils are at their peak. Harvest early in the morning, after the dew dries, but before the heat of the day. Herbs grown for their foliage should be harvested before they flower. Harvest herbs grown for seeds as the seed pods change in color from green to brown to gray but before they shatter. Collect herb flowers just before full flower. Harvest herb roots in the fall after the foliage fades.

Drying is the traditional method of herb preservation.  Freezing is an excellent method to preserve the flavor of certain herbs such as basil that lose flavor when dried. Rinse herbs, then chop coarsely and place in water-filled ice cube trays and freeze.

Species & Cultivars

In addition to the few listed here, possibly hundreds of herbs can be grown successfully in South Carolina. This is a large, diverse and fascinating group of plants.

Basil (Ocimum basilicum): Basil is one of the easiest annual herbs to grow from seed. Plant in the spring after the last frost in full sun and rich, well-drained soil. Harvest leaves frequently to prevent blooming which reduces flavor. Basil is quite tender and will die with the first fall frost. Several species and many cultivars are available. Italian types such as ‘Genovese’ and ‘Lettuce Leaf’ have large, sweet, green leaves that are great for pestos. They may grow up to 3 feet tall. Purple basils are mainly used for decorative value, but also make beautiful rose-colored vinegars. Miniature bush basils are used in the same way as the larger basils and are excellent as edgings and in pots. Lemon-scented cultivars are wonderful with fish. Some exotic basils include cinnamon basil, Holy basil (O. sanctum), camphor basil (O. kilimandscharicum), ‘African Blue’ basil, and Thai basil.

Bay laurel (Laurus nobilis): Bay laurel is a small evergreen tree that produces widely used bay leaves. It is often grown in a container, since it is not reliably hardy while young. Older, established plants can take temperatures down to around 0 °F. Bay laurel thrives in sun to partial shade and a moist soil. The leaves can be used either fresh or dried.

Borage (Borago officinalis): Borage is a self-sowing annual for sunny, dry areas. The young rough leaves and blue star-shaped flowers are used in late spring salads for cucumber flavor. Borage grows to be 2 feet tall. Seed it in the garden in fall or early spring.

Catnip (Nepeta cataria): Catnip is a vigorous perennial with gray-green leaves with a mintlike scent. It grows to 3 feet tall and at least as wide. Cats are attracted to the plant and will roll all over it and even try to scratch it out of the ground. To protect young plants, cage them with chicken wire or grow in hanging baskets. Catnip prefers light shade and well-drained soil.

Chamomile: There are two types of chamomile — English (Chamaemelum nobile) and German (Matricaria recutita). German chamomile is a cool-season annual that grows to about 18 inches tall in sun or part shade. The small white and yellow flowers are produced abundantly and dried for chamomile tea. It is easy to grow from seed sown in early spring and will reseed. Roman chamomile is a low growing perennial ground cover that prefers cool conditions. Plant it in part shade in moderately moist soil. The apple-scented foliage can be used in potpourri. The daisylike flowers can be harvested and brewed as tea.

Chives (Allium schoenoprasum): Chives are easy perennial herbs whose chopped leaves are used in many dishes. The grasslike dark green leaves grow to 12 inches tall. Chives have showy lavender flowers that are edible and used in salads. Chives are the smallest members of the onion family. They are grown from seed or transplants in full sun. Garlic Chives (Allium tuberosum) produce long, flat leaves with a mild garlic flavor. In late summer, they produce showy white blossoms. Garlic chives thrive in full sun. They often reseed prolifically.

Cilantro (Coriandrum sativum): Cilantro is an easily grown annual that is used for both its fresh young greens and for its seeds. Cilantro is used in Latin and Southeast Asian dishes. The onset of summer heat causes it to bolt quickly and go to seed. The seeds are called coriander and are used in Indian cooking and pastries. Grow in full sun to part shade in rich, well-drained soil. Grow cilantro from seed, sowing seeds every few weeks to have a steady supply of young leaves. Vietnamese coriander (Polygonum odoratum) is perennial with a flavor very similar to cilantro. It is used in warm climates where cilantro seeds quickly. Vietnamese coriander grows best in part shade with ample moisture.

Dill (Anethum graveolens): Dill is one of the easiest herbs to grow from seed sown in fall or early spring. It is a cool-weather annual that will go to seed with the onset of hot weather. Feathery young leaves are used in salads and with vegetables and fish. The ripe seeds and unripe seed heads are used in pickling. The large green caterpillars that love to eat dill are swallowtail butterfly larvae. Do not plant dill near fennel since they can cross and produce strangely flavored seedlings. Dill readily self seeds.

Fennel (Foeniculum officinalis): Fennel is a perennial or biennial herb that looks much like dill, but is anise-scented and grows up to 4 feet tall when flowering. Young leaves are used commonly with fish and the seeds are used for flavoring teas and sausages. Fennel attracts swallowtail butterfly caterpillars. Several bronze-leafed cultivars are highly ornamental and have the same flavor. All types can self-seed to the point of invasiveness.

Lavender (Lavandula species): A number of different species are grown, but the English lavender is the best-known and least-adapted to growing in Southern heat. Several other species and cultivars will thrive in South Carolina if they are given their main cultural needs — excellent soil drainage and full sun. Some of the best for growing in a hot climate include: the Lavadin group (Lavandula x intermedia) including a number of cultivars such as ‘Dutch,’ ‘Provence,’ and ‘Grosso,’ Spanish lavender ( Lavandula stoechas); French lavender (Lavandula dentata); and sweet lavender (Lavandula heterophylla). Most are bushy with narrow grayish evergreen leaves. The flowers are wonderfully fragrant in bluish purple spikes. Lavender is used in potpourri and sachets, and can also be used for tea and flavoring desserts.

Lavender cotton (Santolina species): Lavender cotton is a small shrubby evergreen perennial that is often used as edging because it can be sheared into a compact hedge. There are deep green and gray foliaged species. The yellow flowers can be sheared off to maintain a tidy look. The finely cut leaves are fragrant and can be used in potpourris. The plants do best in hot, dry, sunny locations.

Lemon balm (Mellisa officinalis): Lemon balm is an easy-to-grow perennial. It has a strong, sweet lemon scent and makes a delightful tea. The heart-shaped leaves are light green, or yellow in some cultivars. Lemon balm grows to 1½ feet high in sun or partial shade, with well-drained soil. It will spread and self-sow readily.

Lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus): Lemongrass is a lemon-flavored relative of pampas grass that grows to 4 feet tall. The swollen, white, lower end of the stem is the part used. Lemongrass makes a great tea, and is widely used in southeastern Asian cooking. It grows in full sun to part shade. It is hardy near the coast.

Lemon verbena (Aloysia triphylla): Lemon verbena is the most sweetly scented of all lemony herbs. This rather sprawling shrub is tender and will need to be overwintered inside except near the coast. It can be cut back and all leaves removed before storing inside in a cool area until spring, so does not need much room. Lemon verbena is excellent used in teas, cold drinks, sweets and potpourris. It prefers moist soil and full sun.

Marjoram (Origanum majorana): Marjoram is similar to oregano, but milder in flavor. It is easy to grow as an annual. Plants grow 6 to 9 inches tall with small, gray-green leaves and pale mauve flowers. Grow in full sun with moderate watering. Start seed indoors and set transplant out after the last killing frost.

Mexican tarragon or mint marigold (Tagetes lucida): Mexican tarragon is grown as a heat-and drought-tolerant substitute for true tarragon, which is very difficult to grow in the South. This perennial has an excellent anise aroma and can be used in any dish that calls for tarragon. Grow in full sun.

Mints (Mentha species): Mints are a very large group of herbs with many species and cultivars in a wide range of flavors. Most have several traits in common. They are easy, vigorous growers that can become invasive if not confined. All prefer to grow in rich, moist or even damp soil in part shade. It is best to grow mints from cuttings, roots or transplants. Mint seed does not come true to type. Harvest leaves frequently to encourage best growth and prevent flowering. Spearmint (Mentha spicata) is one of the easiest to grow. This is the traditional mint for use in mint juleps and mint tea. Peppermint (Mentha x piperita) has the flavor of candy canes. Other mints include ginger mint (Mentha x gentilis), applemint (Mentha rotundifolia), pineapple mint ( Mentha suaveolens ‘Variegata’) and the very dwarf Corsican mint (Mentha corsica).

Oregano (Origanum vulgare): Oregano is used to season meats, stews, soups, spaghetti sauce and pizza. Unlike most herbs, the leaves are best used dried. Oregano is a hardy perennial and does well in containers. It grows to 2 feet tall, with small rounded leaves and pale pink flowers. Plant oregano in full sun and well-drained soil. Greek oregano (Origanum heracleoticum) is highly prized for its sharp, biting oregano taste.

Parsley (Petroselinum crispum): Parsley is commonly used as a garnish. The attractively curled leaves are tasty and loaded with vitamins. Two forms are commonly available — the flat leaved or Italian parsley, and the curled or French parsley. They can be grown from seeds sown in early spring or transplants. Seed is slow to germinate. Parsley is a biennial, producing leaves the first year and flowers the next. Grow parsley in light shade with rich, moist soil.

Rosemary (Rosemarinus officinalis): Rosemary is a beautiful evergreen shrub that comes in many forms from bushes four feet tall or more to low-growing groundcovers. The fragrance is strong and distinctive, used in many meat dishes, especially chicken. Rosemary typically has gray-green or dark green needlelike leaves and blue or occasionally white flowers. There are many different cultivars that vary in size, shape and even flavor. Weeping and pine-scented cultivars are available. All grow best in dry, sunny areas. Rosemary varies in its hardiness; in the Upstate one of the reliably hardy varieties such as ‘Arp’ or ‘Hill Hardy’ should be selected.

Sage (Salvia officinalis): Sage is a small evergreen shrub with broad oval, gray-green leaves that are used to flavor soups, stews and poultry stuffing. Fresh sage has an especially nice flavor. The plants require excellent drainage and dry soil in full sun. Sage can be difficult to grow in coastal areas. Some cultivars include sages with purple or gold leaves. The cultivar ‘Bergarten’ seems to be better adapted to heat than the species. Pineapple sage (Salvia elegans) grows to 4 feet tall with lush green leaves and brilliant red flowers in late summer. The flowers attract butterflies and hummingbirds. The leaves have an intense pineapple scent. Pineapple sage is usually hardy, but may succumb to a hard winter in the Upstate.

Scented geraniums (Pelargonium species): These tender perennials are often grown in containers so that they can be brought in easily for winter. They are not grown for their insignificant flowers, but for their deliciously scented leaves. Many species and cultivars are available, with scents including rose, apple, apricot, cinnamon, lemon, peppermint, spice, and others. They are used in cookies, cakes, teas and in potpourris. They require sun and good soil.

Southernwood (Artemisia abrotanum): Southernwood is an extremely fragrant shrubby perennial with ferny gray green leaves. The plants grow 3 to 4 feet tall. The aromatic leaves are scented of camphor, lemon or tangerine, depending on variety. It is used in potpourris and as a moth repellent. Southernwood grows best in full sun in well drained, dry soil. Other names for this plant include lad’s love and old man.

Sweet Annie (Artemesia annua): Sweet Annie is an easily grown annual that grows rapidly to 5 to 6 feet tall. The sweetly fragrant, soft lacy leaves and flower heads are used extensively in dried arrangements and wreaths. Grow in full sun with moderate water. Sweet Annie reseeds abundantly, so locate it where this will not be a problem.

Thyme (Thymus species): Thyme is widely used to flavor many different foods. There are numerous species available, with a range of flavors and forms. Some types are mainly ornamental used for attractive growth habit and flowers. The plants are generally low growing, from virtually flat to the ground to a little over a foot tall. Many are evergreen, or have silvery, wooly leaves. In general, the taller growing species and those with smooth leaves will tolerate heat and humidity better than low growing or wooly types. Plant thyme in full sun in very well drained soil that stays dry

Winter savory (Satureja montana): Winter savory is a shrub-like perennial that grows to be about 1 foot tall. The leaves are gathered before flowering to season beans and meats. Clip often to encourage flavorful new growth. Summer savory (Satureja hortensis) is an annual used to season meats and vegetables. It does not grow as well in the south as winter savory. Georgia savory (Satureja georgiana) is a native savory with small, dark, glossy, scented leaves and pink flowers in late summer. It is both highly ornamental and an excellent heat tolerant substitute for summer and winter savories.

Wormwood (Artemisia absinthium): Wormwood is a perennial with very aromatic, lacy silver foliage. It is used ornamentally and as a moth repellent. Give excellent drainage and full sun.

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Shrubs — Plant shrubs, trees, and vines.

Lawns — Some homeowners like lawn paints. Have you thought about having a green lawn this winter?  ʻuse proper herbicide to kill germinating winter weeds.

Roses — Get rose planting underway. Use a soil test as a basis for fertilization. Look for new varieties.

Annuals and Perennials — Plant hardy annuals such as larkspur, poppies, pansies, anchusa, and candytuft. Get sweet peas into the ground.

Bulbs — Continue spring bulb planting. Put lilies of the valley in a shady place.

Miscellaneous — Plant screen plantings for privacy on the patio.

Vegetable Seed — Plant cabbage and lettuce in the coldframe.

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Once you choose the site of your rock garden, select the rocks you want to use and have the soil prepared, you are ready to start construction. The first question you might as is when is the best time of year to make a rock garden? The rocks and soil may be handled at any time except when the ground is frozen, but the summer months offer the longest period of freedom from planting rush, and then the soil is dry and easily handled.

Then there will be autumn rains to make the soil firm and winter frost to settle the rocks and planting can best be done the following spring. The first thing you need to do is to dig off the existing topsoil (the first foot of earth) and remove the roots of all weeds and grasses. Much of this soil may be used in backfilling if all roots are sifted out. On this base the large bulky rocks should be laid, each packed around with soil, well rammed, and topped by several chinker stones, large water features, outdoor fountains, or garden statuary before the next are put into place.

As the program for procedure has already been arranged, the work of laying up the rocks can proceed. Now is the time to worry over the details of the outline of the structure. You may have decided the general shape of the area in advance and may even have a plan at hand to give the principal elevations and major masses. However, you must decide the details of the shape of each crag and ravine as the rock garden is being constructed.

The aim is to give the greatest variety in configuration in a small compass, with an appearance of geologic truth and yet make the best possible home for each plant. For the best growth of many rock plants it is well to separate the groups by little walls of stones, outdoor water features, garden statuary, or large fountains, making a pocket for each. Not only are they thus separated, but the plant roots will follow down the cool rock faces and withstand the rigors of summer and winter more safely.

These pockets vary in size and shape, slope and relation to the sun, thus giving infinite variety in detail to the face of the garden. It would be best that the planting for each area be fairly definite in mind as the pockets are constructed. Though a detailed planting plan for a rock garden cannot be made on paper, the general arrangement of the plants should be decided as the construction proceeds. Surface drainage is another worry at the time of construction.

Most of the rock garden has sufficient slope to carry off excess rain. Too often the little valleys become canyons worn by cloudbursts, when soil and plants are washed away. This must be foreseen and prevented by the laying of the stones. Some of the valleys should have deeper hollows to hold rain for a time, or employ the use of large waterfalls, a patio fountain, or wall fountains, for such rock plants as Primroses and Gentians like their roots well watered.

Actual watering of a rock garden is rarely needed, for with correct construction and proper planting the vegetation will withstand any normal dry season. Sub-irrigation is possible, and at time of construction perforated water pipe or porous drain tiles may be laid among the rocks, about a foot below the finished surface, the upper end to be connected to the water supply for an hour or more in extreme dry weather.

About the Author: Allison Ryan is a freelance marketing writer from San Diego, CA. She specializes in landscape architecture and collects garden statuary and outdoor fountains for her backyard and patio. For the ideal patio fountain, check out http://www.garden-fountains.com/.

Source: www.isnare.com

Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=388721&ca=Gardening

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Perhaps you have dabbled a bit in woodwork, and you aren’t too bad at doing some minor home repairs but you have discovered you really need an outdoor shed to store all those tools and garden items in. Problem is there just isn’t anything on the market that perfectly suits your needs.

Then all you have to do is design your own shed. It doesn’t take a scientist to draft plans for these and its not much different than when you have planned out how to do those minor repairs.

There are several benefits to drawing your own outdoor shed plans. Most importantly, it’s going to be exactly what you want. It’s not as expensive because you don’t have to buy the plans.

Not to say that plans are really expensive but they still cost money and besides you most probably won’t be able to find the perfect plans anyway because what you are drawing is the plans for a custom built shed. On top of all this, it really is fun and quite rewarding not only when you have the plans finished but hopefully you will go onto building your shed. You have to admit that’s a real do it yourselfer.

So what do your require to complete this task of drafting your own designs for your shed? Not much at this point really. You don’t need to be a mathematician but you need some average math skills. Ideally, you will need a computer that has some soft wear like AutoCAD, or Corel draw or even adobe illustrator. If you don’t have any of this software there are free programs that you can sometimes download on your computer or even purchase that are for design planning.

So assuming your computers on and you are ready to go with your new software the first thing you are going to want to design is the floor. There is no doubt that once you have designed one thing you are going to be hooked and want to take on other projects. Being as this is your first time though keep it simple. Don’t get too fancy with your design especially if you are going to be the one using the plan to build your outdoor garden shed.

Visualization goes a long way when you are designing something. You have to have the picture basically in your head then get that picture into the computer. So the next item you will need to draw is your walls. Use the actual measurements that you are going to use when building your shed because your software should draw it to scale. Finally, when it comes to the room you may find it a little trickier because of the angles. You could go with a flat roof but some type of triangle room is far more appealing such as a barn roof or even a gable roof.

The nice thing about drawing your design this way with the computer and software is you can try all different kinds of designs and options until you get the exact one that suits you and is your perfect plan.

About the Author: Download your *FREE* shed plan at MyShedPlans.com – http://www.MyShedPlans.com Discover the easy way to build beautiful woodworking projects with over 12,000 shed plans and woodworking blueprints. MyShedPlans – Discover The Easiest Way To Build Remarkable Sheds And Woodworking Projects Today!

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Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=385556&ca=Gardening

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The word herb has many definitions, but practically speaking, herbs are plants that are grown for their medicinal, aromatic and/or seasoning uses. Most herbs are herbaceous annuals or perennials. Some, such as lavender and rosemary, are small shrubs.

Landscape Use

Herbs can be used in a number of ways in the ornamental garden. Herbs are often planted in theme gardens such as Biblical gardens, scent gardens, tea gardens, kitchen gardens and apothecary gardens. Many herbs can also be incorporated into the regular flower or mixed border. With delightful scents, attractive shapes and textures, and countless shades of green and gray, herbs can be used to make a garden that appeals to all the senses.

Growing Herbs

Many common herbs are from the Mediterranean region. They are adapted to an area with lots of sun, well-drained, stony soil and dry summers. In South Carolina, they can have difficulty in heavy soils and the ever-present humidity. It is helpful to create raised beds for these plants to improve soil drainage, select cultivars that are tolerant of our climate and use a mulch of stone or gravel to help prevent rots.

Almost all herbs grow best in an area that is sunny for at least six hours each day. The fragrance oils, which account for herb flavors, are produced in the greatest quantity when plants receive plenty of sun. A few herbs-including angelica, parsley and mint-prefer partial shade or shade.

Soil for growing herbs should be well-drained. The soil should have a pH of 6 to 7 and contain a moderate amount of organic matter. Add 2 to 3 inches of fine pine bark, cracked pea gravel, poultry grit or coarse compost worked in to 8 to 12 inches deep to improve the drainage in clay soils. Add 2 to 3 inches of fine pine bark, compost or leaf mold to sandy soils to improve their moisture retention. Build raised beds to further improve drainage. Very few herbs will grow in wet soils, although a few such as mints and lemon-grass thrive in moist soil.

It is best to base fertilizer and lime applications on the results of a soil test. Most herbs do not need a highly fertile soil. Very fertile soils tend to produce lush leaves that lack flavor.

Annual herbs are primarily grown from seeds. Several such as basil, coriander (cilantro) and dill may be directly sown. Seeds of some cold-hardy herbs such as parsley may be sown in the fall. Tender annuals such as basil are sown after all danger of frost is past in the spring.

Most perennial herbs are transplanted from small pots. Plant perennial herbs in the fall if possible so that the plants have time to get well established before summer. Perennials can also be planted in early spring. Pinch out the tips of new plants to force them to branch and become full. Plant aggressively spreading herbs such as the mints in a separate area or confine their roots to a depth of 10 to 12 inches to prevent them from taking over the garden.

Although many herbs are drought-tolerant, moisture is needed to maintain active growth. Water herbs thoroughly and then allow the soil to dry out somewhat before watering again. Plants should be watered early enough in the day that leaves can dry before nightfall. Some herbs, particularly most annual herbs, need additional soil moisture for best growth.

Mulch with organic materials such as compost or composted bark to maintain even soil temperatures, discourage weeds, and retain soil moisture. Herbs with gray leaves, or that that are sensitive to excessive moisture and humidity, can benefit from a 1- to 2- inch mulch of pea gravel or other stones.

Some herbs may be grown in containers and brought inside in winter to provide fresh herbs all year. Bush basil, sage, winter savory, parsley, chives and varieties of oregano and thyme are some of the best herbs for growing in containers. Herbs grown inside will need plenty of sunlight from a south or west window.

Prune herbs regularly to promote vigorous, well shaped, sturdy growth. If you harvest herbs regularly, this should keep your plants pruned.

Problems

The fragrance oils in many herbs repel most insects. However, aphids and spider mites can be a problem. Aphids are common in crowded conditions with rapidly growing, succulent plants. Spider mites thrive in dry conditions and can be discouraged by spraying the plants with a strong stream of plain water regularly during periods of drought. The best defenses against pests on herbs are proper growing conditions, good sanitation, removal of weak or infested growth, and regular pruning.

Harvest & Storage

Herbs should be harvested when the fragrance oils are at their peak. Harvest early in the morning, after the dew dries, but before the heat of the day. Herbs grown for their foliage should be harvested before they flower. Harvest herbs grown for seeds as the seed pods change in color from green to brown to gray but before they shatter. Collect herb flowers just before full flower. Harvest herb roots in the fall after the foliage fades.

Drying is the traditional method of herb preservation.  Freezing is an excellent method to preserve the flavor of certain herbs such as basil that lose flavor when dried. Rinse herbs, then chop coarsely and place in water-filled ice cube trays and freeze.

Species & Cultivars

In addition to the few listed here, possibly hundreds of herbs can be grown successfully in South Carolina. This is a large, diverse and fascinating group of plants.

Basil (Ocimum basilicum): Basil is one of the easiest annual herbs to grow from seed. Plant in the spring after the last frost in full sun and rich, well-drained soil. Harvest leaves frequently to prevent blooming which reduces flavor. Basil is quite tender and will die with the first fall frost. Several species and many cultivars are available. Italian types such as ‘Genovese’ and ‘Lettuce Leaf’ have large, sweet, green leaves that are great for pestos. They may grow up to 3 feet tall. Purple basils are mainly used for decorative value, but also make beautiful rose-colored vinegars. Miniature bush basils are used in the same way as the larger basils and are excellent as edgings and in pots. Lemon-scented cultivars are wonderful with fish. Some exotic basils include cinnamon basil, Holy basil (O. sanctum), camphor basil (O. kilimandscharicum), ‘African Blue’ basil, and Thai basil.

Bay laurel (Laurus nobilis): Bay laurel is a small evergreen tree that produces widely used bay leaves. It is often grown in a container, since it is not reliably hardy while young. Older, established plants can take temperatures down to around 0 °F. Bay laurel thrives in sun to partial shade and a moist soil. The leaves can be used either fresh or dried.

Borage (Borago officinalis): Borage is a self-sowing annual for sunny, dry areas. The young rough leaves and blue star-shaped flowers are used in late spring salads for cucumber flavor. Borage grows to be 2 feet tall. Seed it in the garden in fall or early spring.

Catnip (Nepeta cataria): Catnip is a vigorous perennial with gray-green leaves with a mintlike scent. It grows to 3 feet tall and at least as wide. Cats are attracted to the plant and will roll all over it and even try to scratch it out of the ground. To protect young plants, cage them with chicken wire or grow in hanging baskets. Catnip prefers light shade and well-drained soil.

Chamomile: There are two types of chamomile — English (Chamaemelum nobile) and German (Matricaria recutita). German chamomile is a cool-season annual that grows to about 18 inches tall in sun or part shade. The small white and yellow flowers are produced abundantly and dried for chamomile tea. It is easy to grow from seed sown in early spring and will reseed. Roman chamomile is a low growing perennial ground cover that prefers cool conditions. Plant it in part shade in moderately moist soil. The apple-scented foliage can be used in potpourri. The daisylike flowers can be harvested and brewed as tea.

Chives (Allium schoenoprasum): Chives are easy perennial herbs whose chopped leaves are used in many dishes. The grasslike dark green leaves grow to 12 inches tall. Chives have showy lavender flowers that are edible and used in salads. Chives are the smallest members of the onion family. They are grown from seed or transplants in full sun. Garlic Chives (Allium tuberosum) produce long, flat leaves with a mild garlic flavor. In late summer, they produce showy white blossoms. Garlic chives thrive in full sun. They often reseed prolifically.

Cilantro (Coriandrum sativum): Cilantro is an easily grown annual that is used for both its fresh young greens and for its seeds. Cilantro is used in Latin and Southeast Asian dishes. The onset of summer heat causes it to bolt quickly and go to seed. The seeds are called coriander and are used in Indian cooking and pastries. Grow in full sun to part shade in rich, well-drained soil. Grow cilantro from seed, sowing seeds every few weeks to have a steady supply of young leaves. Vietnamese coriander (Polygonum odoratum) is perennial with a flavor very similar to cilantro. It is used in warm climates where cilantro seeds quickly. Vietnamese coriander grows best in part shade with ample moisture.

Dill (Anethum graveolens): Dill is one of the easiest herbs to grow from seed sown in fall or early spring. It is a cool-weather annual that will go to seed with the onset of hot weather. Feathery young leaves are used in salads and with vegetables and fish. The ripe seeds and unripe seed heads are used in pickling. The large green caterpillars that love to eat dill are swallowtail butterfly larvae. Do not plant dill near fennel since they can cross and produce strangely flavored seedlings. Dill readily self seeds.

Fennel (Foeniculum officinalis): Fennel is a perennial or biennial herb that looks much like dill, but is anise-scented and grows up to 4 feet tall when flowering. Young leaves are used commonly with fish and the seeds are used for flavoring teas and sausages. Fennel attracts swallowtail butterfly caterpillars. Several bronze-leafed cultivars are highly ornamental and have the same flavor. All types can self-seed to the point of invasiveness.

Lavender (Lavandula species): A number of different species are grown, but the English lavender is the best-known and least-adapted to growing in Southern heat. Several other species and cultivars will thrive in South Carolina if they are given their main cultural needs — excellent soil drainage and full sun. Some of the best for growing in a hot climate include: the Lavadin group (Lavandula x intermedia) including a number of cultivars such as ‘Dutch,’ ‘Provence,’ and ‘Grosso,’ Spanish lavender ( Lavandula stoechas); French lavender (Lavandula dentata); and sweet lavender (Lavandula heterophylla). Most are bushy with narrow grayish evergreen leaves. The flowers are wonderfully fragrant in bluish purple spikes. Lavender is used in potpourri and sachets, and can also be used for tea and flavoring desserts.

Lavender cotton (Santolina species): Lavender cotton is a small shrubby evergreen perennial that is often used as edging because it can be sheared into a compact hedge. There are deep green and gray foliaged species. The yellow flowers can be sheared off to maintain a tidy look. The finely cut leaves are fragrant and can be used in potpourris. The plants do best in hot, dry, sunny locations.

Lemon balm (Mellisa officinalis): Lemon balm is an easy-to-grow perennial. It has a strong, sweet lemon scent and makes a delightful tea. The heart-shaped leaves are light green, or yellow in some cultivars. Lemon balm grows to 1½ feet high in sun or partial shade, with well-drained soil. It will spread and self-sow readily.

Lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus): Lemongrass is a lemon-flavored relative of pampas grass that grows to 4 feet tall. The swollen, white, lower end of the stem is the part used. Lemongrass makes a great tea, and is widely used in southeastern Asian cooking. It grows in full sun to part shade. It is hardy near the coast.

Lemon verbena (Aloysia triphylla): Lemon verbena is the most sweetly scented of all lemony herbs. This rather sprawling shrub is tender and will need to be overwintered inside except near the coast. It can be cut back and all leaves removed before storing inside in a cool area until spring, so does not need much room. Lemon verbena is excellent used in teas, cold drinks, sweets and potpourris. It prefers moist soil and full sun.

Marjoram (Origanum majorana): Marjoram is similar to oregano, but milder in flavor. It is easy to grow as an annual. Plants grow 6 to 9 inches tall with small, gray-green leaves and pale mauve flowers. Grow in full sun with moderate watering. Start seed indoors and set transplant out after the last killing frost.

Mexican tarragon or mint marigold (Tagetes lucida): Mexican tarragon is grown as a heat-and drought-tolerant substitute for true tarragon, which is very difficult to grow in the South. This perennial has an excellent anise aroma and can be used in any dish that calls for tarragon. Grow in full sun.

Mints (Mentha species): Mints are a very large group of herbs with many species and cultivars in a wide range of flavors. Most have several traits in common. They are easy, vigorous growers that can become invasive if not confined. All prefer to grow in rich, moist or even damp soil in part shade. It is best to grow mints from cuttings, roots or transplants. Mint seed does not come true to type. Harvest leaves frequently to encourage best growth and prevent flowering. Spearmint (Mentha spicata) is one of the easiest to grow. This is the traditional mint for use in mint juleps and mint tea. Peppermint (Mentha x piperita) has the flavor of candy canes. Other mints include ginger mint (Mentha x gentilis), applemint (Mentha rotundifolia), pineapple mint ( Mentha suaveolens ‘Variegata’) and the very dwarf Corsican mint (Mentha corsica).

Oregano (Origanum vulgare): Oregano is used to season meats, stews, soups, spaghetti sauce and pizza. Unlike most herbs, the leaves are best used dried. Oregano is a hardy perennial and does well in containers. It grows to 2 feet tall, with small rounded leaves and pale pink flowers. Plant oregano in full sun and well-drained soil. Greek oregano (Origanum heracleoticum) is highly prized for its sharp, biting oregano taste.

Parsley (Petroselinum crispum): Parsley is commonly used as a garnish. The attractively curled leaves are tasty and loaded with vitamins. Two forms are commonly available — the flat leaved or Italian parsley, and the curled or French parsley. They can be grown from seeds sown in early spring or transplants. Seed is slow to germinate. Parsley is a biennial, producing leaves the first year and flowers the next. Grow parsley in light shade with rich, moist soil.

Rosemary (Rosemarinus officinalis): Rosemary is a beautiful evergreen shrub that comes in many forms from bushes four feet tall or more to low-growing groundcovers. The fragrance is strong and distinctive, used in many meat dishes, especially chicken. Rosemary typically has gray-green or dark green needlelike leaves and blue or occasionally white flowers. There are many different cultivars that vary in size, shape and even flavor. Weeping and pine-scented cultivars are available. All grow best in dry, sunny areas. Rosemary varies in its hardiness; in the Upstate one of the reliably hardy varieties such as ‘Arp’ or ‘Hill Hardy’ should be selected.

Sage (Salvia officinalis): Sage is a small evergreen shrub with broad oval, gray-green leaves that are used to flavor soups, stews and poultry stuffing. Fresh sage has an especially nice flavor. The plants require excellent drainage and dry soil in full sun. Sage can be difficult to grow in coastal areas. Some cultivars include sages with purple or gold leaves. The cultivar ‘Bergarten’ seems to be better adapted to heat than the species. Pineapple sage (Salvia elegans) grows to 4 feet tall with lush green leaves and brilliant red flowers in late summer. The flowers attract butterflies and hummingbirds. The leaves have an intense pineapple scent. Pineapple sage is usually hardy, but may succumb to a hard winter in the Upstate.

Scented geraniums (Pelargonium species): These tender perennials are often grown in containers so that they can be brought in easily for winter. They are not grown for their insignificant flowers, but for their deliciously scented leaves. Many species and cultivars are available, with scents including rose, apple, apricot, cinnamon, lemon, peppermint, spice, and others. They are used in cookies, cakes, teas and in potpourris. They require sun and good soil.

Southernwood (Artemisia abrotanum): Southernwood is an extremely fragrant shrubby perennial with ferny gray green leaves. The plants grow 3 to 4 feet tall. The aromatic leaves are scented of camphor, lemon or tangerine, depending on variety. It is used in potpourris and as a moth repellent. Southernwood grows best in full sun in well drained, dry soil. Other names for this plant include lad’s love and old man.

Sweet Annie (Artemesia annua): Sweet Annie is an easily grown annual that grows rapidly to 5 to 6 feet tall. The sweetly fragrant, soft lacy leaves and flower heads are used extensively in dried arrangements and wreaths. Grow in full sun with moderate water. Sweet Annie reseeds abundantly, so locate it where this will not be a problem.

Thyme (Thymus species): Thyme is widely used to flavor many different foods. There are numerous species available, with a range of flavors and forms. Some types are mainly ornamental used for attractive growth habit and flowers. The plants are generally low growing, from virtually flat to the ground to a little over a foot tall. Many are evergreen, or have silvery, wooly leaves. In general, the taller growing species and those with smooth leaves will tolerate heat and humidity better than low growing or wooly types. Plant thyme in full sun in very well drained soil that stays dry

Winter savory (Satureja montana): Winter savory is a shrub-like perennial that grows to be about 1 foot tall. The leaves are gathered before flowering to season beans and meats. Clip often to encourage flavorful new growth. Summer savory (Satureja hortensis) is an annual used to season meats and vegetables. It does not grow as well in the south as winter savory. Georgia savory (Satureja georgiana) is a native savory with small, dark, glossy, scented leaves and pink flowers in late summer. It is both highly ornamental and an excellent heat tolerant substitute for summer and winter savories.

Wormwood (Artemisia absinthium): Wormwood is a perennial with very aromatic, lacy silver foliage. It is used ornamentally and as a moth repellent. Give excellent drainage and full sun.

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Shrubs — Shrub plantings can be made. Water when needed. Note varieties of camellias in bloom.  Start mulching all shrubs that do not have a mulch.

Lawns — Continue to mow lawns until no new growth is noticeable.

Roses — Continue insect and disease control practices. New rose catalogs will be coming in. Study closely; add some new varieties to your list.

Annuals and Perennials — Visit flower shows and gardens. List desirable varieties of mums. Clean up flower beds immediately after first killing frost.

Bulbs — Plant tulips, hyacinths, daffodils, crocuses, Dutch irises, anemones, and ranunculuses. Watch planting depth. Dig caladiums; clean and store in warm place.

Miscellaneous — Renew mulch around shrubs and rose beds. Loosen mulches that have packed down. Spray with oils before freezing weather to kill scale, mites, etc. Remove all dead stems and trash from flower beds. Transplant into small pots any cuttings taken earlier.

Vegetable Seed — Plant turnips, mustard, kale, rape, spinach, and onion sets.

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Cabbage and Chinese cabbage (Brassica. rapa, Pekinensis Group) are cool-season vegetables that should be grown in early spring or fall. They grow best at temperatures of 60 to 65 °F.

Chinese cabbage forms dense heads that may be very upright and tall (Michihili types) or round and barrel-shaped (Napa types). The leaves are slightly wrinkled and thinner than the leaves of regular cabbage with wide, crisp midribs.

Like many other cool-season crops, they will “bolt” or produce a flower stalk if exposed to a prolonged cold period of 10 or more continuous days of temperatures between 35 and 50 °F following a favorable growing period. When planted in the spring, cabbages must be planted early enough to ensure that they are harvested before temperatures become too hot. Mature cabbages can withstand temperatures as low as 18 to 20 °F.

Cabbage transplants are best for spring plantings, but fall plantings may be directly seeded into the row. Plant spacing affects head size. For 2- to 3-pound heads, transplant plants or space seed 9 to 12 inches apart in rows 36 to 44 inches wide. Varieties for sauerkraut are spaced wider.

Direct seeding is possible, especially for the fall crop. Loamy to sandy soil is best for direct seeding. It is critical to keep the soil moist during seedling establishment. It is also desirable to have an area that is protected from the wind when seeding these crops. Direct-seeded plantings should be thinned to the desired stand when the plants are in the three-leaf stage.

Chinese cabbage is best sown in late summer and fall rather than spring. If seed is sown in the spring, young plants may bolt if they are exposed to frost or to a long period of cold nights.

Sow the seed thinly in the row, and thin the plants to 12 inches apart for Michichili types and 18 inches apart for Napa types.

Cultivars

• Cabbage: Bravo, Market Prize, Rio Verde, Savoy Express, Tropic Giant (hybrid), Green Jewels (hybrid)
• Chinese Cabbage: Pak Choi Type - Joi Choi (hybrid)

Soil

Cabbage (Brassica oleracea, Capitata Group) grows well on a wide variety of soils, but a well-drained sandy loam with high organic matter content is preferred. Soil pH should be 5.8 to 6.5. Have your garden soil tested several months prior to planting and adjust soil pH according to recommendations.

Fertilizing

A soil test is always the best method for determining the fertilization needs of the crop.

If a soil test has not been taken, apply 5-10-10 at 3 pounds per 100 square feet before planting. These vegetables should be sidedressed once during the growing season. Sidedress with ammonium nitrate at 1 pound per hundred feet of row or calcium nitrate at 2 pounds per 100 feet of row. More frequent sidedressing may be required if the garden is sandy or leaching rains occur.

Watering

Water the garden to provide a uniform moisture supply to the crop. The garden should be watered in the morning so that the foliage is dry before dark. Water sufficiently to moisten the soil to a depth of at least 6 inches. Light sprinklings will encourage shallow rooting of the plants. The critical periods for moisture are stand establishment and crop maturation. It is important to have a constant uniform moisture supply to produce a high-quality crop and to have the spring crop mature before high summer temperatures. Mulching can help conserve water and reduce weeds.

Harvest and Storage

Cabbage should be ready for harvest 60 to 80 days after planting transplants. Harvest cabbage when the head is firm and has reached adequate size depending on the variety and growing conditions. Once cut, move it out of the sun as soon as possible. Cabbage will “sunblister” and lose weight in direct sun. Store all harvested cabbage in the refrigerator. Cabbage can be stored at 34 °F and 98-percent humidity for up to five months.

Problems

Head cracking or splitting occurs due to excessive water uptake and growth near maturity. Root-prune with spade or trowel or twist the stalk to break some of the roots and reduce water uptake.

Several worms (imported cabbageworm, cabbage looper, diamondback moth caterpillar), harlequin bugs, cabbage maggots, aphids and flea beetles are the major insect problems.

Common disease problems include black rot, wire stem, damping-off, downy mildew, Alternaria leaf spot and watery soft rot. Cabbage is more susceptible to wire stem and downy mildew than Chinese cabbage. Chinese cabbage is more susceptible to Alternaria.

Black rot causes the most serious damage and appears as V-shaped lesions down the leaves and spreads into the water conducting system of the plant. Black rot is caused by a bacterium that is seed-borne or that can be transmitted by transplants. Warm, moist weather favors the disease. There is no control for black rot once it is established in a planting. Prevent black rot by purchasing transplants that are marked with a tag indicating that they are certified disease-free or plant western-grown chemically treated seed.

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To make your rock garden pleasing to the eye, you should seek out the greatest variety of plants. At the same time, you have to look at keeping a unified but not uniform effect. It is possible to make the planting too wild and unkempt, but more often a rock garden looks entirely too much dressed and too well tended to represent the moods of nature. There is a certain unity and plan in the arrangement of the wild flowers of the fields, and this intangible scheme should be your guide in planning the placing.

With all this striving for variety in unity, it is a good idea to keep the flower masses of the same date of bloom somewhat apart, getting fewer of the flower combinations than is planned for a flower border. The requirements of finished pictorial composition are less desired here, the effect being decidedly more toward the very uneven and picturesque, with the tenets of the art of manmade pictures as little in evidence as possible.

Further, each plant is to be enjoyed to a degree of itself, and it is distracting to have several adjoining pockets all in best bloom at once. Without making the arrangement spotty, it is better to stage the bloom of any week rather widely over the whole garden area, leaving each flower group set off by stones, wall fountains, garden water features, large waterfalls, and foliage with quite a patch of one plant and then no bloom for a distance, as often is the case in nature.

Yet companion crops, as tiny yellow Daffodils blooming in purple Aubrietia, are always desired and welcomed. It is hopeless to explain in words how to do it and yet not overdo each requirement. Not only do you want the interests of the plants well distributed over the area of the garden, but through the weeks of the year as well. Of course the climax of flower comes in the spring months; therefore, you must put a lot of thought into how you can much to maintain interest at other times of the year.

Many plants of evergreen foliage must be used, more than half the total planting being of this nature. Little bulbs may be added rather freely as second crop in the pockets, the bloom appearing before (or after) that of the major occupant of the pocket (or as companion bloom). Interest of foliage, as of Fern, Sempervivum, or Mossy Saxifrage; of habit, as tufted mats of Diapensia or irregular stems of Cotoneaster; or in fruits, as of Cornus canadensis, can always be employed to carry on the pictures when flowers are absent.

A garden of this nature, when devoid of interest with items such as large water features, outdoor fountains, or garden statuary, indicates a poor play on the part of the planner. Yet, in the zeal of getting a wide distribution of interests both in position and time of appearance, don’t forget to produce striking flower effects at times. Use special plants for accent and attract attention to these by their own charm and their placing.

A patch of Gentiana verna is a magnificent solo requiring no orchestra of other spring flowers, nor do Primula luteola, Cyclamen count, or Viola pedata need any helpers in presenting their message. Iris cristata may walk about and mingle its bloom with that of Phlox douglasii. Yellow Alyssum, White Iberis, Pink Arabis, and Purple Aubrietia may fall down a cliff and bloom together. In this planting, you can take a mean advantage over nature in that geographic distances can be overcome and flowers of Patagonia, Oregon, Finland, and Japan may all grow happily on one small mound.

You can also use the geographic restriction to a degree, and only wild flowers of one’s own region be allowed, or of one major mountain range, as Caucasus, Alps, Rockies, or Andes. Soil conditions may always be made a control of plants to be used. The rock gardener should take advantage of strategically placing patio statuary, a patio fountain, or a garden waterfall in the area of the garden to break up the monotony of too many rocks that look similar.

These water features are also an excellent place to place specialty rocks the gardener wants to bring attention to. Botany may become a major factor, and certain families or genera may dominate, as Primrose, Pentstemon, or Phlox; or definite flower shapes or foliage habits, as bell-like flower or grassy leafage, may be made the main motive. All kinds of intricate schemes can be thus elaborated. No other kind of gardening has such possibilities of variations.

About the Author: Allison Ryan is a freelance marketing writer specializing in landscape architecture and
outdoor fountains and
garden water features. For the perfect
patio fountain for your home, stop by
http://www.garden-fountains.com/.

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Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=388744&ca=Gardening

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By using only organic gardening supplies; your gardening tasks will be easier and more enjoyable.

Compost, an all natural soil amendment is made through the use of composters. Composters break down organic materials such as leaves, grass clippings, and food scraps to make a 100% organic, all natural soil additive. Composters come in varying shapes, sizes and designs. Research composters and choose one that meets your needs. Making your own natural compost is a great alternative to other organic gardening supplies you would ordinarily have to buy, and it’s free!

Rain barrels collect water from your roof and store it until needed. Rain water is softer and chemical free. Rain Barrels are great for keeping your plants healthy and saving water. Many rain barrels are made from reused food drums and recycled plastic, keeping with the commitment to sustainable living. You can collect approximately 675 gallons of rain off your roof from a single rain storm. Stored rain water supplies much needed moisture to your gardens during extreme dry spells where rationing is necessary.

All Natural and organic fertilizer supplies much needed nutrients to plantings. Natural and organic fertilizers generally have a slow release so nutrients last over time. Natural and organic fertilizers such as liquefied worm poop and tea from composters, are among the top natural and organic fertilizers and an essential ingredient to your organic gardening supplies.

Push reel mowers are a great way to be organic! Push reel mowers use no gas or electric, only your own energy. Push reel mowers are lightweight, easy to use and gives your lawn that golf course look. Owning a push reel mower is an important part of organic gardening.

Grow native plants. Native plants require less water. They are also naturally more insect and disease resistant than other plants. Healthy, lush gardens made from indigenous plants also make a natural home for birds.

Container gardening is good for planting your favorite flowers and vegetables when space is limited! Use large containers such as steel buckets and wooden barrels for creative container gardening. Container gardens do not require a lot of organic material due to being enclosed. Many gardening containers such as green pots are all natural, made from all natural elements such as rice hulls and coconut fiber.

Using only natural and organic gardening supplies such as Insecticidal Soap, Horticultural Oil or Organic Disease Control will keep your garden healthy, naturally. Organic gardening supplies leave no hazardous residue and break down naturally into the soil. Natural predators such as bats, praying mantis and ladybugs are great organic insect controls. Bat boxes are effective for keeping bats nearby and supplies shelter through the harsh winter months. Enjoying and benefiting from organic gardening is dependent upon the use of the highest quality organic gardening supplies.

Mulch your flowerbeds and vegetable garden to retain moisture around plants. Mulch supplies your plants with much needed moisture throughout hot, sunny days. Mulching also keeps weeds away. Apply all natural worm poop fertilizer around plantings when mulching. Your organic garden will love you for it.

Create a bird habitat by placing bird houses, birdbaths and bird feeders in your yard. Birds are fun to watch and will control the insect population in a natural way. Pick a quiet section of your yard to keep a variety of birding supplies to attract birds of your choice. Bird food such as sunflower hearts and suet are great treats.

Whether you are working on your lawn, flowerbed or vegetable garden, have fun. Remember, all natural supplies will make organic gardening easier and more enjoyable. The following is a list of recommended all natural and organic gardening supplies: composter, rain barrels, organic fertilizers, push reel mower, natural gardening containers, birding supplies, natural homemade compost, These are the best equipment, tools and supplies for keeping your plants, turf and environment healthy. Happy Gardening!

About the Author: This article was written by Vera Pappas, Co-Owner of Green Nation Gardens, Online retailer of Green Products for Home and Garden. Visit Green Nation Gardens at www.greennationgardens.com

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