Tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) are valuable garden plants in that they require relatively little space for large production. Each plant, properly cared for, yields 10 to 15 pounds or more of fruit.

Planting

Tomatoes are warm-season plants that grow best at temperatures of 70 to 80 °F during the day and 60 to 70 °F during the night.

Tomato plants may be started indoors from seed, or transplants may be purchased from a reputable garden center. If starting your own plants, use a light soil mix and give the plants plenty of light. Tall, spindly transplants are usually caused by low light levels in the home. Unless you have a sunny, south-facing window, supplemental light will probably be necessary. The seeds are sown six to eight weeks before the last frost date in your area. A week before transplanting time, harden-off indoor-grown plants by exposing them to an increasing number of hours outdoors each day.

When you are ready to put homegrown or purchased plants into the ground, select stocky transplants about 6 to 10 inches tall. Set tomato transplants in the ground, covering the stems so that only two or three sets of true leaves are exposed. If transplants become “leggy,” horizontal planting of tomato plants is an effective way to make plants stronger. Roots will form along the buried portion of the stem, giving better growth and less chance of plant injury from an excessively weak stem. Do not remove the containers if they are peat or paper pots, but open or tear off one side to allow roots to become free. If non-biodegradable containers are used, knock the plants out of the pots and loosen the roots somewhat. Press the soil firmly around the transplants so that a slight depression is formed for holding water. Pour about 1 pint of starter solution (2 tablespoons of 5-10-10 or 5-10-5 fertilizer per gallon of water) around each plant.

If plants are to be staked or trellised, space them 24 inches apart in rows 3 feet apart. Although it requires more initial work, staking makes caring for tomatoes easier than letting them sprawl. Since they are off the ground, fruit rots are r educed, spraying is easier and may be required less, and harvesting is much less work. Use wooden stakes 6 feet tall and 1 ½ or 2 inches wide. Drive them 1 foot into the soil about 4 to 6 inches from the plant soon after transplanting. Attach heavy twine or strips of cloth to the stakes every 10 inches.

Prune staked tomatoes to one or two main stems. At the junction of each leaf and the first main stem a new shoot will develop. If plants are trained to two stems, remove all other shoots, called suckers, weekly to maintain these two main stems. Pinch shoots off with your fingers.

Growing tomatoes in wire cages is a popular method among gardeners because of its simplicity. Cage-growing allows the tomato plant to grow in its natural manner but keeps the fruit and leaves off the ground. Using wire cages requires initial expenditure, but they will last many years. Be sure to get fencing with at least 6-inch spacing between the wires so that you can get your hand inside to harvest the tomatoes.

If tomato plants in wire cages are pruned at all, once is enough. Prune to three or four main stems. Wire-cage tomatoes develop a heavy foliage cover, reducing sunscald on fruits. Caged plants are less prone to the spread of disease from plant handling, since they do not have open wounds and are handled less frequently than staked plants. However, it helps to space the plants somewhat further apart (3 feet) to allow good air circulation between plants. Humidity is higher because of the foliage density, and diseases, such as late blight, spread rapidly in humid situations.

Types

The varieties of tomato plants available may seem overwhelming, but they can be summed up by several major types:

• Midget, patio or dwarf tomato varieties have very compact vines and grow well in hanging baskets or other containers. The tomatoes produced may be, but are not necessarily, the cherry-type (1-inch diameter or less).
• Cherry tomatoes have small fruits often used in salads. Plants of cherry tomatoes range from dwarf (Tiny Tim) to 7-footers (Sweet 100).
• Compact or determinate tomato plants grow to a certain size, set fruit and then decline. Most of the early-ripening tomato varieties are determinate and will not produce tomatoes throughout a South Carolina summer.
• Beefsteak types are large-fruited. These are usually late to ripen.
• Paste tomatoes have small pear-shaped fruits with very meaty interiors and few seeds. They are a favorite for canning.
• Some tomatoes are orange or yellow. Sometimes the only way to get these is by growing your own.
• Winter storage tomatoes are set out later in the season than most tomatoes and fruits are harvested partially ripe. If properly stored, they will stay fresh for 12 weeks or more. While the flavor does not equal that of summer vine-ripened tomatoes, many people prefer them to grocery store tomatoes in winter.

Recommended Cultivars

The following tomato cultivars are recommended for South Carolina gardens. Most cultivars are indeterminate, except for Celebrity and Small Fry.

• Better Boy, Better Bush Improved, Big Beef, Celebrity, Early Girl, Park’s Whopper, Terrific
• Cherry Type: Juliet, Small Fry, Super Sweet 100, Sweet Million
• Plum Type: Viva Italia
• Trellis: Tropic

Always choose varieties with disease resistance. Fusarium wilt is a common disease that can destroy a whole tomato crop. Many varieties are resistant to this disease. This is indicated by the letters VF after the cultivar name. VFN means the plants are resistant to Verticillium, Fusarium and nematodes; VFNT adds tobacco mosaic virus to the list.

Fertilizing

A soil test is always the best method for determining the fertilization needs of a crop.  The desired soil pH for tomatoes is between 5.8 and 6.5. Tomatoes are heavy feeders. Use a starter solution for transplants. Sidedress when the first fruits are about the size of quarters, using 1 ½ ounces of 33-0-0 fertilizer per 10 feet of row. Sidedress again two weeks after the first ripe tomato with a balanced fertilizer such as 5-10-5, and repeat this one month later.

Cultural Practices

Blossom-end rot can be a serious problem with tomatoes. The main symptom is a dark-colored dry rot of the blossom ends of the fruit. It occurs when there are extremes in soil moisture, which cause calcium deficiency in the fruit. When rain or irrigation follows a dry spell, the roots cannot take up calcium fast enough to keep up with the rapid fruit growth. Blossom-end rot also occurs if the delicate feeder roots are damaged during transplanting or by deep cultivation near the plants.

The following measures will help prevent blossom-end rot:

• Test the soil and maintain a pH between 6 and 6.5 and an adequate calcium level by liming or applying gypsum.
• Mulch with 2 to 3 inches of materials such as grass clippings, pine straw and leaves. Mulching prevents rapid soil drying and allows roots to take up available calcium efficiently.
• Do not overfertilize plants with nitrogen or potash. Excessive amounts of these nutrients depress the uptake of calcium.
• Keep moisture levels fairly uniform by regular watering and by maintaining a mulch layer around the base of the plants. Water plants during extended dry periods. Tomatoes need 1 to 1½ inches of water per week.
• Add organic matter to the soil. This will help “loosen” clay soils and will improve the water-holding capacity of sandy soils. In either soil, organic matter will increase plant uptake of water and calcium.

Harvest & Storage

It takes 55 to 105 days to maturity depending on the tomato variety. Pick fruit when it is fully vine-ripened but still firm; most varieties are dark red. Picked tomatoes should be placed in the shade. Light isn’t necessary for ripening immature tomatoes. Some green tomatoes may be picked before the first killing frost and stored in a cool (55 °F), moist (90-percent relative humidity) place. Do not store green tomatoes in the refrigerator since red color will not develop at less than 50 °F. When necessary, ripen fruits at 70 °F. Green tomatoes can be stored at 50 to 70 °F for one to three weeks. Ripe tomatoes should be stored at 45 to 50 °F for four to seven days.

Common Problems

Besides blossom-end rot, the following problems are common:

• Leaf roll: This is a physiological condition caused by excess water.
• Growth cracks: Tomatoes crack when environmental conditions (drought followed by heavy rain or watering) encourage rapid growth during ripening of the fruit.
• Sunscald: This occurs when tomatoes are exposed to the direct rays of the sun during hot weather.
• Poor fruit set: This occurs for several reasons, such as extreme temperatures, dry soil, too much shade and excessive nitrogen.
• Tomato blossoms are very sensitive to temperature. At temperatures of 55 to 60 °F, pollination can be severely impaired and very few fruits will form. Temperatures of 90 to 95 °F are also very unfavorable for pollination.
• Catfacing: This is a disorder caused by cold, wet temperatures during fruit set. The fruit is extremely malformed and scarred.

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Turnips (Brassica rapa) and rutabagas (B. napus) are generally tolerant of freezing weather, and their roots can be stored for a fairly long period of time in cold storage conditions. Rutabagas or Swedish turnips (“Swedes ”) tend to be somewhat larger, sweeter and less strongly flavored than turnips. Also, their flesh is a yellowish creamy color. Turnips have a crisp white flesh and a zesty mustard-like flavor.

Although the leaves of both plants can be eaten, turnip greens are a more common food than rutabaga leaves. Some varieties of turnips are grown for the foliage only and do not produce the swollen root.

Planting

Although these crops will stand some heat, they are normally considered cool-weather crops. Plant them in late winter/early spring for a spring crop or in the late summer for a fall/winter crop. The seeds of turnip and rutabaga are very small. The seedlings are fairly small and delicate as well. Scatter the seeds and rake them in or plant them thickly in a straight, narrow line. Cover the seeds about ½ inch deep. Very thick stands will have to be thinned to allow for good root formation. To ensure good germination and emergence, frequent light watering may be needed. Crusty soils will retard emergence and a poor stand may result in these soils.

Recommended Cultivars

Turnip:

• Purple Top
• White Globe
• White Lady

Rutabaga:

• American Purple Top

Soil

Turnips and rutabagas will thrive in many types of soil. A loose, friable loam will allow the best root size and formation. Good drainage is essential, but dry soils should be avoided unless irrigation is planned. Soils of moderate fertility will produce the best crop, although proper fertilization and pH adjustment can overcome lack of natural fertility.

A soil test should be taken to determine the soil pH and nutrients needs. The optimum pH for turnip and rutabaga production is 6.0 to 6.5. Apply limestone according to soil test recommendations at least three months prior to planting to adjust the pH to the proper level.

Soils that are infested with root-knot nematodes should be avoided particularly for the fall crop; these pests will cause deformed roots. Do not plant turnips or rutabagas after other cole crops.

Fertilizing

A soil test is always the best method for deter-mining the fertilization needs of a crop. If a soil test has not been taken, fertilize turnips and rutabagas with 3 pounds of 5-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet. Add additional nitrogen when the young plants begin to put on “true leaves” or after a heavy rainfall. Apply calcium nitrate at 2 pounds per 100 feet of row or ammonium nitrate at 1 pound per 100 feet of row. Avoid applying too much nitrogen, which will reduce root formation. Broadcast fertilizer over the whole planting area a few days before seeding. Sidedress applications should be placed at least 3 inches away from the seed row.

Watering

If the weather is dry, irrigation during the root development stage will give the best quality roots.

Cultural Practices

Early season weed control is essential. When rows are used, shallow cultivation and hoeing are effective. In a wide bed, pulling the weeds is sometimes the only solution. This should be done when the weeds are very small. Hoeing and cultivation also keep the soil loose and friable around the plants, enabling them to produce large, well-shaped roots.

Harvest & Storage

Turnip tops can be harvested from a very early stage for greens. Continual harvest of the tops will adversely affect root development. Harvest turnip roots when they reach the size of a tennis ball or larger (2½ to 2¾ inches in diameter).

Rutabagas will get larger if they are planted early enough. They can be eaten at smaller sizes, but start harvesting them when they reach the size of a softball (3 to 4 inches in diameter).

Pithiness and/or a very strong flavor can develop if these crops are left in the ground during hot weather. Also, do not leave them in the ground during hard freezing weather. These roots store well in plastic bags in the refrigerator or in a cold root cellar. Although rutabagas and turnips are normally cooked, many people choose to eat them lightly stir-fried or raw in salads.

Problems

Turnips and rutabagas suffer from the same problems as other members of the cabbage group. Several species of leaf-feeding caterpillars eat the foliage. Cutworms can sever the seedling. Wire-worms occasionally feed on turnip roots.

Damping-off, downy mildew and white spot are diseases that will damage turnips and rutabagas.

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Planting

Peppers (Capsicum annuum) are warm-season plants that grow best at temperatures of 70 to 85 °F during the day and 60 to 70 °F during the night. Peppers generally require a long growing season and grow very slowly during cool periods. Therefore, after the soil has thoroughly warmed in the spring, set out 6- to 8-week-old transplants to get a head start toward harvest. Do not plant peppers in the garden until after the last chance of frost. Start seed indoors six to eight weeks prior to this date.

Peppers should be spaced 12 inches apart in the row. Rows should be 3 feet apart. Pimento peppers require 18 to 24 inch spacing in the row. Rows should be 42 inches apart.

Select a well-drained, loamy or sandy loam soil for planting. Avoid areas that have had eggplant, tobacco, pepper or Irish potato planted in the previous year.

Cultivar Types

Although types of peppers belong in one of six groups, most are classified according to their degree of hot or mild flavor. The mild peppers include bell, banana, pimento and sweet cherry. The hot peppers include the cayenne, celestial, large cherry and tabasco.

Bell peppers measuring 3 inches wide by 4 inches long usually have three or four lobes and a blocky appearance. They are commonly harvested when green, yet they will turn red or yellow when fully ripe. About 200 varieties are available. Other sweet peppers are conical, 2 to 3 inches wide by 4 inches long, have thick walls and are used when red and fully ripe. Banana peppers are long and tapering and harvested when yellow, orange or red. Plant Hungarian wax if a mild hot variety is desired. Cherry peppers vary in size and flavor. Usually they are harvested when orange to deep red.

Slim, pointed, slightly twisted fruits characterize the hot cayenne pepper group. These can be harvested either when green or red and include varieties such as anaheim, cayenne, serrano and jalapeno. Celestial peppers are cone-shaped, ½ inch to 2 inches long and very hot. They vary in color from yellow to red to purple making them an attractive plant to grow. Slender 1- to 3-inch pointed tabasco peppers taste extremely hot and include such varieties as chili piquin and small red chili.

Recommended Cultivars

• Sweet Peppers - Blushing Bear, Keystone Giant, Jackpot, Sweet Banana, Valencia
• Hot Peppers - Jalapeno, Red Chili, Giant Thai, Super Cayenne II, Hungarian Yellow Wax

Fertilizing

Peppers require moderate amounts of fertilizer. A soil test is always the best method of determining the fertilization needs of the crop. If a soil test has not been taken, make a preplant application of 5-10-10 at the rate of 3 pounds per 100 square feet. Use a starter solution for transplants, and sidedress cautiously after the first fruit reach about the size of a dime using three tablespoons of 33-0-0 per 10 feet of row). Sidedress cautiously until a large number of peppers are set. Too much nitrogen before fruit set causes all foliage and no fruit. After fruit set, fertilize regularly using a complete fertilizer. Soil pH should be 5.8 to 6.5 for best growth.

Watering

Practice good cultivation and provide adequate moisture. Water the garden to provide a uniform moisture supply to the crop. Water sufficiently to moisten the soil to a depth of at least 6 inches. The critical period for moisture is during fruit set and fruit development. Mulching can help to provide uniform moisture, conserve water and reduce weeds.

Harvesting & Storage

Peppers should be ready for harvest in about 70 to 85 days after transplanting. When starting from seed, expect 100 to 120 days to maturity. Harvest sweet peppers when they reach full size, the fruit walls are firm, and the peppers are still in the green or yellow state. The stems of pepper plants are brittle. When harvesting the fruit, cut the stems instead of pulling, to avoid breaking branches.

Varieties turn from green to red, yellow or chocolate when allowed to mature on the plant. Bell peppers can be left on the plant to turn color; however, they should be picked as soon as they change color.

Hot peppers, except for jalapenos, are allowed to ripen and change colors on the plant. Jalapeno peppers should be harvested when the fruit turn black-green. Entire plants may be pulled and hung just before full frosts. Yields are smaller for hot peppers.

Store peppers in the refrigerator. The optimal conditions for storage are temperatures of 45 to 50 °F and 80- to 90-percent relative humidity for two to three weeks.

Problems

Blossom-end rot is a common problem that causes a brown to black sunken rot at the blossom end of the fruit. It is caused by calcium deficiency. Blossom drop occurs when night temperatures are above 75 °F or when a crop of fruit set is excessive.

Insects that may be a problem include European corn borer, corn earworms and armyworms.

Many disease problems can be avoided by using certified disease-free seed and transplants. Do not use tobacco products near peppers, since tobacco mosaic virus can be readily spread from tobacco. The two most troublesome diseases of peppers in the home garden are bacterial wilt and bacterial leaf spot. Other disease problems include Fusarium wilt, Pythium root rot, Cercospora leaf spot, Southern blight and anthracnose (on fruit). Root-knot nematodes can also be a problem.

Reduce disease problems by:

• Rotating planting locations. Don’t plant peppers, eggplants and related crops in the same garden spot more often than once every three years.
• Removing all plant debris from the garden each year. Eliminate any volunteer pepper plants that may occur between crops.
• Purchasing disease-free transplants. Inspect plants and be sure they have no spots or lesions on them at the time of purchase.

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